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Chung tay xây dựng cộng đồng 
Cấp bậc: Binh nhì
Tham gia: 3/2/2021
Bài viết: 23
Đánh giá: [0]
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In contrast to painting, tiling is not as quick and simple as it appears. Ceramic tiling is for those who like the painstaking and repeated nature of perfectionist work. Even if I cannot say that I do, it has all been worth it in the end, despite the fact that the three days turned into three weeks (really). Clean white subway tile completely transforms interiors, and it does it in a timeless manner. To avoid making a mistake when mixing the thin-set, review the lessons I learned about how to tile your bathroom before you begin and make certain that your bathroom tiles are sturdy and long-lasting.
1. Draw a rough sketch of your wall. The main goal is to avoid any small bits of tile and awkward slivers of tile around the edge of the wall and the edge of the flooring. In my diagram, I'm just tiling half of my wall — 42 inches from the floor, which means my center would be 21 inches from the floor.
2. Dry-lay a horizontal row (green) and a vertical column (blue) to define the layout of the structure without using any mortar. Place the tiles in front of the wall that will be tiled before you begin. Make use of spacers in your test lay so that you can see exactly where your tiles will end up when you are finished. Rearrange the rows until you have the finest possible layout.
3. Draw a diagram of your layout on the wall. Always remember that the edge of a wall or the floor may be slanted, so never use them as guides. Instead, make use of a level.
4. Prepare your thinset according to the manufacturer's instructions.
The consistency of your thinset should be smooth and peanut butter-like, as seen in the photo. If your tiles are too damp, they will droop, but if they are too dry, they will not adhere properly. Initially, I start with a small amount of water and gradually add the dry thinset powder to it. This also aids in the prevention of lumpy mixes.
5. Using your trowel (a margin trowel would be more convenient to use), apply approximately 1/8′′ of thinset to the wall. Make use of the flat edge at a 45-degree angle to smooth out the region, making it thin and consistent.
Tip: Only apply enough to cover a surface that can be tiled in 5-10 minutes or less. Some thinset dries much more quickly than others.
6. Use mild pressure at a 45-degree angle with the notched side of the trowel to form lengthy grooves in the wood. It will be easier to remove any excess thinset if there are grooves. It also aids in the suctioning of the tile against the wall and the retention of the tile in place.
7. The first tile should be laid where the colors blue and green meet in the diagram above. Set the tile at a slight angle to the wall and twist it into place with hard pressure. Painter's tape should be used for the first row to ensure that the tiles stay in place.
8. Use spacers on each corner of each tile to ensure that the grout lines are evenly spaced.
9. Repeat the technique all the way around the wall.
10. Measure, mark, and cut tiles to fit along the edges, around electrical outlets, corners, and windows, among other things. Remember the rule of thumb: measure twice, cut once.
11. After you've cut your tile, apply thin-set directly to the tile for those tricky corners and hard-to-reach spots, and allow it to dry completely.
12. Remove extra thinset between the grout lines using a screwdriver or spacer before the thinset has a chance to dry completely. It's far easier to clean when it's still damp than it is to hack away at it afterwards with a razor.
13. Using a moist sponge, carefully wash away any thin-set residue from the tile's facing surface.
14. In order to finish off the top row of tiles, I just used a simple bullnose trim to complete the wall.
15. Intricate niches (such as this shower shelf) require 45-degree corners, which can be achieved by cutting the tile. Allow enough space between the walls to ensure that the caulk joints are the same width as the grout joints in wall-to-wall corners.
There are a variety of methods to finish off an exterior corner, depending on the tile style you choose to use. Whether it is a bullnose or a double bullnose, quarter rounds... It was at a local tile shop that I discovered this lovely white metal edge finishing. In order to prevent having a frame on this corner, I tried everything I could to keep the bullnose horizontal. The metal finish was ideal for a straight-edge finish, and it also doubles as a corner guard while not in use.
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